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It was during the Brahmatal Trek that I learned, once again, the quiet truth behind an oft-repeated line: dogs are humanity’s best companions. This one followed us through the entire trail, padding beside us over snow and stone, and returned with us to the base camp as though the journey had always belonged to him. Whenever we lagged behind, he stopped and waited. When we paused to rest, he stood alert, eyes fixed on the surrounding forest, as if keeping […]

This photograph was taken in the coast of Kannur, Kerala. This form of traditional Indian martial rt is called Kalaripayattu. Kalaripayattu (or Kalarippayattu) is an ancient Indian martial art from Kerala, considered the “mother of all martial arts,” combining physical conditioning, animal-inspired movements, and weapon training (wooden and metal) with bare-handed combat, focusing on flexibility, breath control, and Marma points (vital spots) for both combat and healing. It involves four stages of training: body exercises, wooden weapons, metal weapons, and bare-handed […]

Merak is a small hamlet beside the Pangpong Tso. It’s about 20 kms from Pangong village. Its starkingly calm and beautiful with minimal disturbance around. A place completely different from Pangong. There are a few homestays to stay in, which are moderate to good. We stayed at Marzee homestay, one of the best stays of my life, and I am sure you will say the same if you stay there. 

This morning, as I stood at a roadside tea stall behind the Writers’ Building, the city paused for me in an unexpected way. Amid the clatter of cups and the drifting smell of tea, I noticed an old man seated nearby, carefully arranging flowers into small bouquets—petal by petal, thread by thread—preparing them for a day of selling. Age revealed itself in his face and in the unhurried rhythm of his hands. Every movement carried the weight of years. One […]

This photograph was taken in 2019 at the Kumbh Mela in Allahabad. It was not my first visit, but it was undoubtedly the most profound. No matter how many times one witnesses it, the sheer vastness of the Kumbh defies comprehension. It is not merely a gathering—it is an entire civilisation unfolding along the riverbanks. The Kumbh Mela holds within it the whole of India. Millions arrive from every corner of the country—saints and ascetics, pilgrims and seekers, householders and […]